कुछ दिनों पहले मुझे दिल्ली से लखनऊ जाने का मौका मिला, तो मैंने इस यात्रा की योजना बनाली ।

लखनऊ कई रास्तों द्वारा जाया जा सकता है, लेकिन मैंने तय किया कि मैं रास्ते में मुगल नगरी आगरा धूमूँगा । नए बने ताजा यमुना एक्सप्रेसवे के रास्ते यह यात्रा लगभग ५३३ कि.मी. की है। हिंदी फिल्म पीकू में इस एक्सप्रेसवे को देखने के बाद, मुझे अपनी आंखों से देखने की इच्छा हुई ।

लखनऊ- नवाबों का शहर :- बचपन से लखनऊ के बारे में बहुत सुना था, इसलिए यहाँ जाने की इच्छा रखता था। उत्तम, शाही कोठियों के अलावा लखनऊ शानदार मुगलई खाने के लिए प्रसिद्ध है। उत्तर भारत की राजधानी में ढेरों प्राचीन जगहें कौर उत्तम खाने पीने के ठिकाने हैं ।

रुट मैप – सड़क मानचित्र –

दिल्ली से लखनऊ जाने की सड़क आगरा होकर जाती है ।

दिल्ली > मथुरा > आगरा > कन्नौज > लखनऊ

यमुना एक्सप्रेसवे और फिर आगरा-लखनऊ एक्सप्रेसवे

कुल दूरी:  लगभग ५३३ कि.मी.

दिल्ली से लखनऊ पहुँचने में ७ घंटे ३० मिनिट लगते हैं।  गाड़ी मे लंबे सफर में गाड़ी के सभी कागजात और पर्याप्त नकद साथ रखें। आपकी गाड़ी में फास्टैग होना जरूरी है। नए मोटर व्हीकल एक्ट में अनिवार्य किया गया है ।

मैंने दिल्ली से सेल्फ ड्राइव कार किराए पर ली, ताकि गाड़ी की स्थिति अच्छी हो और कागजात पूरे हों। अगर आप अपनी कार से जा रहे हैं, तो टायर और बाकी मैकेनिकल हिस्सों की अच्छी तरह जांच कर लेनी चाहिए । लंबी यात्रा से पहले गाड़ी की सर्विस करवाना जरूरी है।

दिल्ली से आगरा रोड ट्रिप :-  अब यमुना एक्सप्रेसवे की वजह से दिल्ली और आगरा के बीच की दूरी सिर्फ २१२ कि.मी. रह गई है। सुबह ६ बजे दिल्ली से निकला और १० बजे आगरा पहुँचकर वहाँ की बेड़मी पूरी और आलू कद्दू की सब्जी का नाश्ता किया, भल्ले की चाट खायी।

हाईवे पर कुछ अच्छे ढाबे थे, लेकिन भूख न होने के कारण मैंने शहर में जाकर ताजमहल देखना तय किया।  ताजमहल देखे बिना आपकी आगरा यात्रा अधूरी है।

ताजमहल – प्यार का प्रतीक :- मैं ताजमहल के पश्चिमी गेट के पास “ई-रिक्शा” से टिकट काउंटर पहुँचा।  रास्ते में सरकारी हस्ताशिल्प बाजार भी है, जहाँ स्थानीय कारीगरी के नमूने मिलते हैं।

टिकट काउंटर से स्मारक तक पैदल चलते हुए, कई जगह रुककर ताज की खूबसूरती निहार सकते हैं । मैं दोपहर में पहुँचा, लेकिन सोचा कि सुबह की धुंध और उगते हुए सूरज में यह नजारा देखने में अद्भुत होगा। कुछ समय बिताकर मैं आगे की यात्रा पर निकल पड़ा।

राजा सुमेर सिंह का किला – इटावा :- यमुना एक्सप्रेसवे के बाद आगरा-लखनऊ एक्सप्रेसवे पर चलते हुए मैंने इटावा में राजा सुमेर सिंह का किला भी देखा।  यह आगरा से १२४ कि.मी दूर यमुना नदी के किनारे बना हुआ है।

इस किले को “बारह द्वार किला” भी कहा जाता है। लेकिन आजतक इसका बारहवाँ  दरवाजा कोई भी ढूंढ नहीं पाया। पुराना किला समय के साथ खंडहर हो गया, जिसे सरकार ने फिर से बनवाया है। यह पहाड़ी पर स्थित है, कभी इसमें गुप्त सुरंगें होने की बात कही जाती है।

कन्नौज – ऐतिहासिक महत्व का शहर :- इटावा से लगभग ११० कि. मी. दूर गंगा किनारे बसा कनौज, कभी उत्तर भारत का प्रमुख नगर था। यहाँ के सरकारी पुरातात्विक संग्रहालय में मौर्य साम्राज्य (325 ईसा पूर्व) से लेकर गुप्ता साम्राज्य (३१ ई -६०० ईसी) तक के सिक्के, मिट्टी के बर्तन, मूर्तियाँ  और टेराकोटा संरक्षित हैं । यहाँ कुछ प्रागैतिहासिक हड्डियाँ भी मिली हैं ।

मैंने गंगा किनारे स्थित ५०० साल पुराने सिद्धेश्वर मंदिर का भी दौरा किया। शरद पूर्णिमा की रात यहाँ विशाल मेला लगता है।

कनौज इत्र (परफ्यूम) के लिए भी प्रसिद्ध है। लखनऊ रवाना होने से पहले मैंने यहाँ से कुछ इत्र खरीदे ताकि पूरी यात्रा की खुशबू याद रहे।

कन्नौज से लखनऊ – अंतिम पड़ाव :-  कन्नौज से लखनऊ १२३ कि.मी. दूर है। सफर में आगरा का ताजमहल, राजा सुमेर सिंह का रहस्यमयी किला, और सिद्देश्वर मंदिर की शांत गंगा – तट यात्रा।

लखनऊ पहुंचकर मैंने रूमी दरवाज़ा, छोटा इमामबाड़ा,, द रेजीडेंसी, दिलकुशा कोठी, सफेद बारादरी जैसे कई ऐतिहासिक स्थलों का दौरा किया। लखनऊ की मिठाई में गिलौरी बहुत मशहूर है।

यात्रा सुझाव:- आप यदि दिल्ली से लखनऊ रोड द्वारा सफर करें तब आगरा, इटावा और कनौज जरूर देखें। हो सके तो कुछ दिन रुककर इन जगहों को अच्छी तरह घूमें या फिर डिटूर लेकर इनकी खूबसूरती का आनंद लें।

“शुभ यात्रा”

The post एक स्मरणीय रोड ट्रिप : आगरा होते हुए दिल्ली से लखनऊ तक। appeared first on Roadtales.

The plan for the day was to ride north to a village called Losar which falls just below Kunzum pass. A hundred-odd kilometres away. And I’d return to Kaza through Kibber, Chichum and Key. A total of two hundred kilometres. An entire day’s ride. Possible. But it would be tough. And that was the first mistake of the day – underestimating the distance and also starting late. A fact that I was made aware of by the owner of the hotel Mandala – Amit. 

Nonetheless, I throttled on. But maintaining a fast pace after the first fifty kilometres proved to be quite a challenge. The scenery all around was painted white! And I could not resist stopping every few minutes to take pictures. 

And shortly after, I was slowed down by the terrain which I was itchin’ to ride on – Snow and ice! I had taken off-road training at Tribal Adventure Cafe in Bangalore specifically for this section of the ride! Although riding on ice is not something you can get coached on in a tropical city, but, riding on snow can be learnt by riding in slush. The key to which is to maintain momentum, smoothen out throttle input and to brake very carefully, only when necessary. And for riding on ice, without snow chains, it’s to follow the same procedure and to pray that the bike doesn’t slide out of control! I had these three principles etched in my mind and brought them to practice the moment the rubber hit the snow and ice. And the first few patches went much smoother than expected!

As I got closer to Losar, the amount of snow on the road was higher! I was cruising at a super fast and steady fifteen kmph on an incline and I thought to myself that I had mastered the art of riding on snow and ice! And just as the thought gave rise to a grin on my face, SWOOSH! The rear wheel slid under me and I landed on my butt! And it all happened in a split second! 

I picked up the bike. Tried and failed to gain traction midway on ice. Rode down the road, rode back up, and got stuck in deeper snow. The off-road tyres without the snow chains just could not move forward. With the time past 1 p.m., I decided it was best to turn around. Sunlight in the mountains, especially during winters is very limited. Sundown usually happens around 4 p.m. And this is where the first mistake of the day – starting late – would come back to bite me in the rear. I picked up pace wherever I could. I sped past dirt roads and cut through puddles – the second mistake of the day. 

As the plan was to make a round trip and return to Kaza via Chichum, I took that road. The first few kilometres were clear, just dirt. I was happy. Then a small patch of ice, then another, then another and then a never-ending blanket of snow lay on the road. The only vehicle track on it was mine – which meant that there wasn’t a single other vehicles that had used that road since it snowed in a few days ago. The clock struck four. The sunset behind the fifteen thousand feet high peaks. The temperature dropped. And I had my second fall. It was another uphill ascent and the bike slid under me, just like the first time. I was ever so cautious, but without snow chains, it had to happen. 

The next village – Chichum was ten kilometres away. There was no connectivity on the three SIM cards that I had with me. There was absolutely no one around. And getting stuck on the road meant spending the night outside in subzero temperatures. I turned around to connect back to the Losar – Kaza road. 

It was 5 in the evening. Twilight was all that I had. The multiple patches which I had completed with ease in the afternoon were now more difficult. The sun’s rays make the ice softer. That helped me when I was making my way up. Without the sun, the soft ice got back to being solid, glass-like ice. And I fell for the third time. 

I looked around. No one insight. I began contemplating what I would do if I wouldn’t be able to ride further. I picked up my bike. Slowly moved forward. Slipped again. And dropped the bike. But this time, I didn’t fall. The idea of abandoning my bike and walking for tens of kilometres or spending the night out in the open began to seem like a real possibility. Notwithstanding, I picked up the bike again, and prayed for some traction on the ice. And for my fortune, I got what I asked for. There were just a few more patches left. I told myself  “Maintain momentum. Smooth throttle input. No braking. And stay calm”. I was back on broken roads. 

Before I could breathe a sigh of relief, I thought I’d check on that tingly feeling that had been developing in my feet. I stopped on the side of the road. I looked at my boots and it had ice all over. I couldn’t move my toes by an inch. This is where the second mistake – cutting through puddles in the afternoon brought in a hefty fine. I had a plastic bag on my feet to keep it from getting wet. But my perforated boots would still let water inside the body of the shoe. The water which made its way inside stayed inside. As the temperature dropped, the water around my feet turned to ice. The unbearable biting cold made me feel weak and drowsy. I now had a bigger fear – of losing all my toes to frostbite! Sixty kilometres lay ahead (to Kaza). It got darker and colder. Yet, I had to ride as fast as I could to get some warmth around my feet. 

I reached the parking lot of Hotel Mandala at around 6:30 that evening. Amit and his wife Anju stepped out to get some groceries. I stopped Amit and showed him my feet. Amit, who hailed from Manali and had spent many years in Spiti, didn’t seem to be too worried. He asked me to get to the living room of his house – which also served as the ground floor of the hotel and undo my shoes. He started a fire in the ‘tandoor’ – a large, cast iron fireplace used commonly in the Himalayan villages. He brewed me a cup of hot chai. And baked a local delicacy called Siddu. 

Siddu 

Thirty minutes in front of the heat along with the chai and the food in the belly brought my feet back to life and awakened my drowsy mind. He even took the trouble of drawing me a hot bath. And later served rice with rajma (beans curry) and mutton – barley soup for dinner. An action-packed, thrilling, cold and adventurous day came to an end with hot food and warm company. 

Rice with Rajma 

Day 23: Kaza – Langza – Komic – Hikkim – Kaza 

I’d learnt very well from my earlier mistakes. I planned the day with a lot of room for delays. Started on time. And reached the Golden Buddha statue at Langza quite quickly. 

Golden Buddha Statue, Langza

I then reached the world’s highest post office at Hikkim which is at an altitude of 14567 ft.! To make sure I’d never forget that place, I picked up a postcard and mailed it home. 

Post office, Hikkim

All along, the roads were a mix of broken tarmac, dirt and snow. I slipped and dropped the bike a few times, but I handled the terrain much better than the previous day, despite the sun being under the clouds and the temperature dropping to below -15°C at Komic! The monk at one of the coldest villages in India gave me a short tour of the monastery and some hot chai later. 

Komic 

Day 24: Kaza – Kibber – Chichum – Key – Kaza

The weather was sunny. A welcome change compared to the gloom of the previous day. The day was again well planned out, comfortable. The small town of Kibber which is perched on top of a mountain looked magnificent from far. 

Kibber

The Chichum bridge which is Asia’s highest is another splendid location. But there was a little more snow on the road that day. It got a little tough. And I started losing a lot of time. 

Chichum bridge

Still, I wanted to squeeze in another location, a secluded little village – Tashigong, but that trail was entirely blanketed with snow. I maintained a whimsical average speed of five kmph for two hours and abandoned the plan midway on reaching the village Gethe. Otherwise, I wouldn’t have been able to make my way back to Kaza that evening. 

I reached Key monastery which is at almost the same altitude as Kaza and just a few minutes away. It was twilight. And getting cold. I entered the monastery just as it was about to close. And the day was done. All the places I had on my list, except Tashigong were ticked off. 

Day 25: Kaza – Pin Valley – Dhanker – Tabo 

Making my way back to the plains

The five nights that I spent in Kaza were highly memorable. Purely because of my hosts – Amit and Anju. They run one of the very few hotels that are open throughout the year in the village. The night when I reached Kaza, the village looked deserted. And with no internet facilities available then, I roamed street to street to find a shelter for the night and I found Hotel Mandala. I booked a room for myself only for the first night but the way they opened up their home and cared for me when I got my feet frozen made me extend my plan. 

I stayed with them for a total of five nights. Each evening after I returned from that days’ ride, Amit would prepare tea and fill it in a blue antique-ish glass flask (the kind that I’ve seen only in the mountains) and serve it in a glass chai tumbler. Anju would get the snacks and start the fire in tandoor (fireplace). The three of us would gather in the living room to share stories all night long.

The couple who have their origins in Manali have been together for sixteen years! But with the freshness they had in their relationship, I would have never guessed that number. Amit started this hotel three years back and stays here. Anju stays in Manali to take care of their daughter and comes to Spiti once in a few months to be with her husband. In my time at Mandala, I spent a great portion of it admiring them. It was evident in the way that they looked at each other, how much they missed the other when they were away. It was evident in the way they spoke, how much the other meant to them. It was evident, that they truly loved each other. A love that radiated like sunshine and made the -10°C evenings feel warm.

I left Kaza with a heavy heart, filled with adoration, admiration and the wish to be back in their company soon.

Anju & Amit 

The first aim was to reach the last village in Pin Valley – Mud. Pin Valley is in the Spiti – Lahaul district on the way down to the lower Himalayas from Kaza. A major chunk of the road was dirt and gravel, which was an absolute joy to ride on! But I would encounter snow closer to Mud. Probably, the last day of snow riding for the entire trip. 

Pin Valley

On each of the preceding three days, my luggage remained back at the hotel. If and when I dropped the bike, picking it up was easy. On this day, the bike was fully loaded – a whopping sixty kilograms of luggage! A drop on this day would lead to a lot of heavy weight lifting workouts! 

A bulldozer and a couple of buses had traversed the road earlier in the day. The sun was also shining bright and I was making the attempt at the peak of daylight – all of which provided me with a much-needed advantage! Yet, as usual, the bike had many slides, but I did not drop the bike even once! The thought of picking up the fully loaded KTM made me drive with extreme caution and awareness. It was tiring. It was stressful. But, man – oh – man, the joy of completing the patch without a single drop? Got me high up on cloud nine! 

Mud, Pin Valley 

I checked out Dhankar, a millennia-old monastery. And put head to a pillow in a small homestay in the town of Tabo. Where I’d wake up to the other millennia-old monastery in Spiti in the morning. 

Day 26: Tabo – Reckong Peo 

When I’d passed by Tabo about a week ago, I had only seen the one monastery in front. I had been breaking my head all along on why people would refer to the seemingly new monastery to be over a thousand years old! It was only when I saw a postcard in Hikkim (the highest post office in the world) that I realised that I had seen the new monastery built in front. And missed the old one behind. And that prompted me to halt at Tabo. 

In the morning, I loaded up my motorcycle for the long ride back towards Reckong Peo and the plains to make my way to the next leg of the trip – Bhutan. With little time available, I rushed into the Tabo Gompa (monastery). The monastery was built of wood and mud and I was stunned to see that such a simple structure had withstood the test of time for 1023 years! 

I searched and found a monk to help me know more about the temple. He opened the locked doors and took me inside. The temple was dark. No artificial light, to prevent damage to the paintings on the walls. The monk carried a small hand-held torch to use as a pointer. In ten minutes, he showed me all the paintings which were painted by Kashmiri Artisans more than a thousand years ago. The story of the life of Buddha, among many others, is depicted on those mud walls. 

When my short tour was complete, I was back at the entrance ready to head out when a couple walked in. They inquired with the monk about the paintings. But in reality, they were confirming what they already knew about the temple and the paintings.

During the course of the tour, the handheld torch had come to my hands. When the woman started talking more about the pictures, I gave her the torch as I was ready to walk out. She invited me to stay back for a while. My interest had peaked with their knowledge. And I decided to go tag along with them for a second tour. 

The couple introduced themselves as Gita and Pradeep Khar. The duo seemed to have amassed an ocean of knowledge about Buddhism and the temple. I was grateful to be around them. They knew the story behind most of the paintings on those earthen walls and I eagerly listened to them talk passionately about them. I felt like a kid in a candy store. I had my eyes wide open with excitement and admiration for their knowledge and the synergy that they shared with each other. Listening to them talk was like listening to a song, a duet. Their love for each other lit up the dark chamber like a supernova.

Pradeep & Gita

When we stepped out after an hour and a half! We got to talking more. I learnt that they’ve been together for sixty years, since their twenties! They were high school sweethearts! I could not and did not want to stop talking to these wise souls who to me, looked like the personification of Ying and Yang – perfect balance and harmony. And when they showered their love on me, I got lost! My heart was ecstatic to have met Gita and Pradeep.

Day 27 & 28: Reckong Peo – Rohru – Dehradun 

And on that wonderful note, the second leg of my 5 month trip of the Himalayas, came to an end. The roads leading South were much wider and warmer. I maintained faster speeds and stayed on the saddle for long hours. I reached the big city of Dehradun, where I rested in comfort and prepared for the third leg. 

I hope you all enjoyed reading Spiti: Part 1 & 2. 

Until next time! 

Ride mad! Ride safe! 

Coming next: Bhutan! 

Apart from the blogs, you can follow my entire journey on my Instagram @mentlmanja

Thank you

The post Overlanding in the Himalayas #8: Winter Wonderland – Spiti: Part 2 appeared first on Roadtales.

The smog in the Capital carried a strong sulfur-like pungent odour. The visibility was around twenty metres. And the citizens moved around with masks over their faces. I stayed indoors for most of my time in Delhi – the time designated to prep my bike and luggage for the journey ahead.

A good old friend Devender Bijania and new friends – Yuvan, Avi and Ana

Day 16:

The day’s ride to Narkanda in Himachal Pradesh was supposed to be relatively short – four hundred kilometres and a ride time of nine hours. The first half of the ride demanded throttling across four-lane highways till the mountains arrived. This was the first time I had clad my bike with dual-purpose tyres – the Pirelli Scorpion Rally STR and was worried about the performance on the canyons. I was amazed to see that they broke my insecurities by clinging onto the tarmac much better than most road tyres while leaned over.

Day 18:

I had ridden into the Last village on the Indo – Tibetan road Chitkul very late the previous night. I’d managed to find a decent hotel, one of the very few open. And woke up to some more snow-capped mountains. “Riding around in the Himalayas can never get boring,” I said to myself.

‘Overlanding’ has many meanings. One of them is “a self – reliant journey” – one that involves camping. I had never travelled in that fashion before and it became one of the goals of this ride. Hence the name – Overlanding in the Himalayas. I had rented a Quechua 3-person tent from a store called X-DOG Trekking in Bangalore along with my decent sleeping bag and other camping equipment. I didn’t have the tent with me in Ladakh and I’d been eager to use ’em. Spiti would be colder than Ladakh and I wouldn’t be able to use it there either. Reckong Peo in Kinnaur district of Himachal would be the perfect place. The weather on the day was forecasted to be cool at 8°C – the best conditions I could hope for.

The town is perched almost on the top of a big mountain in the Sutlej River Valley. I had heard that finding a spot to camp here was quite easy. Which I found to be untrue. The town reminded me of many other growing towns throughout India with reducing open spaces – ones not occupied already or not having a dry apple orchard. The two hours spent searching for a spot was a bitter reminder of the need for Humanity to ever expand. Notwithstanding I had to find a place to camp.

I wandered upwards into a smaller town with a sweet name – Kalpa. I came across a young boy who worked in a homestay nearby. He turned around and pointed higher up the mountain towards the alpine forests. Saying there’d be ample space for me to pitch my tent there. Ample free space. Along the way, almost everyone I enquired about a place to camp had pointed towards only one direction – Up! I was quite unsure if the teen’s suggestion was reliable.

Venturing up, I took a left turn onto a mud road. The kid had told me about this. The sun which was shining bright when I began the ascent a few hours earlier was now running into the horizon. The path turned dark. The evening breeze grew strong. A while after chugging through the loose soil, I found one flat spot. Eight by eight feet. Enough for me to set up camp. Not enough to light a fire and walk around. Covered by trees on either side, a cliff in the front and the road behind, it wasn’t the most tempting spot. But the only one I’d seen all afternoon.

A thin old man, who I’d passed earlier on the path caught up with my stalled bike. I asked him if the spot was safe. The question seemed to make him wonder why I’d wanted to sleep there. Alone. He gave me the same suggestion that I’d got all day long – “go higher up!”. He stopped my eyes midway, which had begun rolling by telling me that he’d show me the place.

The spot was at the very next turn up the dirt road. It was a big patch of absolutely flat land about half the size of a badminton court. The rear side was the mountain, the left was the road, the right was an orchard and in front was an uninterrupted view of magnificent snow-capped mountains – which the day’s last rays of light painted gold. One can try to imagine a better spot. But cannot. The generous man walked me further up to the house he lived in, to get me a 5 litre can of water and half a dozen apples – freshly plucked from the orchard. On my way down to the spot, I borrowed some firewood from their pile.

I had a warm fire started. My ‘ready to eat’ food cooked slowly on the butane stove. I sipped on my hot cup of water and gazed at the slightly cloudy, star-studded night sky. I am fortunate to have my first moto-camping experience high up in the Himalayas.

Day 19:

The night was supposed to be cool. Not cold. At around three in the morning, it started to drizzle. At around seven, the drizzle seemed to become lighter. But the ground grew colder. From atop the mountain, there was a voice. A man yelling “Tent wale babu, utho, baraf padh rahi hai ” which translates to “Tent man, wake up, it’s snowing”. I’d never experienced snowfall before, and I was tempted to get out and admire the phenomena. But the chill from the night had kept me mostly awake. I wanted to get some more sleep. But failed to. A little later the enthusiastic voice came closer. Next to my tent. He asked me to open up. He had chai, he told me. That always gets me right up. I unzipped my tent, and it was indeed snowing. Pure wonder. The mountains in front had disappeared behind the precipitating clouds.

The view from my tent

It was the first time I saw this stranger’s face and I let him in my tent. He had two cups into which he poured his hot tea. He told me that his twelve-year-old granddaughter had asked him to bring me the tea. His name was Mani Lal. A proud Kinnauri Himachal man with an old brown checkered blazer and a traditional ‘pahadi’ cap. As he left he handed me a dozen apples from his orchard. Of which I kindly accepted only a few.

Mani Lal

Worried that it would get difficult to pack up if it snowed more, I started getting ready. I heard another voice coming towards my tent. It was the old man I had met the previous evening. The one who showed me the camping spot. He had come down with another flask in his hand. Some more chai. I stopped my work and invited him in. He told me he was a daily wage worker. When I’d met him, I’d assumed he was the owner of one of these apple orchards.

Amar

He had come down from Nepal in search of work. To put his son through school to see him become a local doctor in his village. The man’s name was Amar. He was probably in his fifties. And I would consider him ‘old’ to be working as a daily wage labourer. But such is the reality of life.

Amar helped me pack up my tent. Mani Lal came down too to lend a hand. Two people I had never met before, showered me with love and generosity. Both of whom had no reason to do that. But such is the beauty of life.

It snowed till I descended to Reckong Peo, the big town below. Where the snow turned into the bitterly cold rain. The rain lasted for four more hours all the way till Spillow. My jacket and pants held up very well against the downpour. But my gloves and shoes did not. Two hours in, my hands and feet became wet. With the cold wind, they soon became numb. And riding became a task. I fell short of my destination of Tabo by sixty kilometres. With the weather getting worse again, I halted at the small village of Nako. It snowed all night long. I snuggled into my sleeping bag, under two blankets.

Friends made at the Dhaba in Nako – (from right) Karan, PK, Chacha, Kamal and gang

Day 20:

Spiti and Lahaul District begins at the check post at Sumdo. I took a right after the yellow coloured steel bridge to the village of Gue. A place that came under the spotlight many years ago for housing a naturally mummified body of a Buddhist monk. At noon, the place looked deserted. With not a human insight. And spectacular. With all the snow in sight.

The chilly, overcast day got cloudier, darker and colder. My visor fogged up and my face was exposed to the prickly wind. I entered Kaza, the biggest village in Spiti. This too seemed deserted. I went from street to street in search of a hotel to stay the night. All but a handful were closed. The only open shop at seven in the evening, in the market, directed me to a Hotel Mandala.

To be continued…

Instagram: @mentlmanja

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In their own words, “Racing at 350kmph is not something you are born to do; it is something you train for, something you fight for…” 

This is Moto GP!!!

Let’s rewind a bit, remember that feeling you had when you first peddled faster on your bicycle and won a race amongst your friends? And then the first time you were allowed to ride your dad’s motorcycle all on your own and tested it to the limits on an open straight road? And how about the first time you zipped through traffic on your brand new motorcycle just to not let the other guy win a finish-line-less race? 

Bet you remember all of it, and the only reason you remember that and will do it all over again whenever you get the chance boils down to the adrenaline rush, the feeling of winning…

Now fast forward again,

This is what MotoGP is all about but of course, multiply the intensity by 100 times as only the select few ever get the chance to experience being one with the fastest motorcycles and to compete with some of the best riders on the planet. Be it rain or sunshine, they race. Age has no barrier, they race. According to them, “There is just the metal, connecting you rubber, to asphalt”. 

A glimpse into building a MotoGP motorcycle…

MotoGP is the greatest of all road motorcycle racing events in the world. These motorcycles are built with meticulous precision based on the technical rules set in order to allow an equal playing field for all riders. These motorcycles are generally not available for purchase to the public and neither are they road legal. Building one of these magnificent machines is a fiercely technical and competitive journey that requires enough patience.  On the basic, the heart of the beast comes first and as soon as one is built, it is tested vigorously on the dynamometer. After the testing produces satisfactory results, the engine is then housed in its very own specially engineered chassis for most manufacturers use aluminium while a few others prefer steel. Once that’s done the rest of the parts like suspensions, brakes etc are mounted. Finally the shakedown test… the first time when the motorcycle is tested on a track so that the rider can provide integral feedback on how the bike handles and functions. And then the re-tuning is a repetitive process till the beast perfects its craft.

A trip down memory lane…

It all started when the Fédération Internationale de Motocyclisme (FIM) organized the very first Road Racing World Championship Grand Prix in 1949. Initially, races were held for all categories of bikes and well as engine sizes such as 50 cc, 80 cc, 125 cc, 250 cc, 350 cc, 500 cc, and 750 cc solo machines and at some point, 350 cc and 500 cc class motorcycles with sidecars. It was not till the 1960s that all machines adopted 4 stroke engines over the 2 strokes especially in the higher capacity segments. 

Over the next decade or four, there were many changes that took place due to which several Asian Motorcycles teams like Yamaha, Suzuki and Honda pulled out and came back after a few years of re-building. While many segments of racing events were dropped, 500cc two-strokes were phased out; Manufacturers were allowed to recruit their choice of engine configuration and much more. But by 2003, the 2 strokes had no game left in the premium leagues despite the higher production costs of 4 stroke bikes. But the 125cc class along with 250cc class didn’t adopt the transition and stuck to 2 stroke engines. 

2007 was the year that the MotoGP saw a tragic shift where the maximum engine displacement a machine could have was limited to 800cc for 5 years. And that was just the beginning, the subsequent years saw many more changes to reduce financial losses to an extent where Friday practice and test sessions cut short just to prolong the lifespan of engines, switching to a single tyre manufacturer, and banning qualifying tyres, active suspension, launch control, ceramic composite brakes and carbon brake discs too.

The 2012 season finally saw a breather thanks to the increase in engine capacity that was set at 1000cc again. The newly introduced Claiming Rule Team began making further changes that put riders and manufacturers at more ease. Changes included more engines per season could be used, fuel tank capacity was increased, but all this was subjected to a factory team buying their rivals power train systems for a fixed price.  

Over the next few years more changes could be seen such as all teams had to adopt a standard ECU (Engine Control Unit) and certain exceptions could be made by allowing the factory teams to use any software as they saw fit, but the open teams had to stick to the standard ECU prescribed. A few years later the open classes were dropped and all factory racing teams were to stick to the standard ECU. 250cc 2 stroke class was phased out to accommodate the Moto2 where 600cc 4 stroke bikes were used. And the 125cc 2 stroke class too was dropped to make way for the Moto3 where 300cc 4 stroke bikes are ridden. 

How does the current day MotoGP event format look like?

Well, there are 4 main categories namely; Moto3, Moto2, MotoGP and MotoE (The newest entrant to the family which employs electric bikes for their races). The Test and practice sessions happen on a Friday, this is the time the riders are allowed to familiarize themselves with the track and racing teams can make small changes according to the track. On Saturday, all 20 racers are given a certain amount of time and tries to set the best lap time possible. This lap time determines the spot they occupy on the D-day starting line. The one to clock the fastest lap time gets the first position and so on. Come Sunday, it’s the day where just those 45 minutes is nothing but a sprint; start to finish with no pit stops for fuel or change of tires.

Earlier, the riders were allowed to change tires only when rain fell during the race and the red flag was shown only to restart or resume the race with wet tires, but lately, the rules have changed to allow a rider switching the entire bike in cases of rain after the white flag is shown. The change of bikes means a different set of tires, steel brakes rotors with different brake pads and softer suspension systems. The world championship consists of 19 races held in 15 different countries and only one of which is held during the night. And each finish position holds points that will finally add up to the highest total and the rider with the highest points is crowned the World Champion for that season. 

The MotoGP Race Circuits are listed below:

•  Qatar, Lusail, Losail International Circuit (Night/ Evening Race)
•  Argentina, Termas de Río Hondo, Autódromo Termas de Río Hondo
•  United States, Elroy, Circuit of the Americas
•  Spain, Jerez de la Frontera, Circuito de Jerez
•  France, Le Mans, Circuit Bugatti
•  Italy, Scarperia e San Piero, Mugello Circuit
•  Spain, Montmeló, Circuit de Barcelona
•  Netherlands, Assen, TT Circuit Assen
•  Germany, Hohenstein-Ernstthal, Sachsen ring
•  Czech Republic, Brno, Masaryk Circuit
•  Austria, Spielberg bei Knittelfeld, Red Bull Ring
•  United Kingdom, Silverstone, Silverstone Circuit
•  Italy, Misano Adriatico, Misano World Circuit Marco Simoncelli
•  Spain, Alcañiz, Motorland Aragón
•  Thailand, Buriram, Buriram International Circuit
•  Japan, Motegi, Twin Ring Motegi
•  Australia, Phillip Island, Phillip Island Grand Prix Circuit
•  Malaysia, Sepang, Sepang Circuit
•  Spain, Cheste, Circuit Ricardo Tormo

There have been many lives lost in this dangerous sport but the love for it still remains the same and in fact, it seems to be growing by the millions. You will hear many inspiring stories along with the ones that shatter the heart about many brave souls that come with the will to etch their names in the stones of time but that’s just what this sport does to you. Once you have a taste of it, you cannot escape it; you will not want to escape it. 

This is MotoGP!

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There are a couple of routes to travel to Lucknow, but I decided to take a tour of the Mughal city, Agra, and explore it en route. The trip is around 554 km when we take the newly built Taj or Yamuna Express. After looking at the views of it in the movie Piku, I couldn’t resist my temptation to see it through my own eyes. 

Lucknow – The City of Nawabs 

I always wanted to travel to Lucknow after reading and watching about it while growing up. Besides some of the best Nawab Kothis, the city offers the best Mughlai cuisine as well. This Uttar Pradesh capital has a list of tourist spots and some of the best eateries to rejoice. –

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Route Map:

To reach Lucknow there are a few ways but the common route is via Agra. 

Delhi > Mathura > Agra > Kannauj > Lucknow 

Taj/Yamuna Expressway and then Agra Lucknow Expressway 

Distance: 533 km

Essentials Needed 

The journey from the national capital to the Uttar Pradesh capital is around 7 hours 30 minutes. In this day’s long journey, one must be prepared with all the necessary documents and essentials. These are mostly the vehicle documents and enough cash. Most importantly, ensure that the car has Fast Tag, as per the new Motor Vehicle Act. 

I decided to hire a self-driving car from Delhi as it ensured that the car is in good condition and has the necessary documents needed for the travel. If you’re travelling in your car, along with all the essentials make sure your tyre is proper. It’s always important to get the car thoroughly checked before making a long journey, like this. 

Delhi to Agra  Road Trip

Delhi and Agra are not that far, thanks to Yamuna Expressway. It is just 212 km away that gave me the courage to take a halt here and check out the city before moving towards Lucknow. I started early from Delhi, at around 7 AM so that I can be at Agra by around 10 AM, the time by which restaurants will start operating and I can eat amazing breakfast. 

Though there were a couple of restaurants on the highway, I thought of entering the city and get mesmerized by the Taj Mahal. After all, if you’ve not seen Taj Mahal, the token of eternal love when you’re in Agra, it a shame.

Taj Mahal – A Token Of Love

I decided to go someplace close to the monument so that I don’t have to spend much time travelling from one place to another in the city. I zeroed on Yes Restaurant, which is located at the Western Gate of Taj Mahal. The food served is decent and economical. Besides, it’s hygienic 

After having a good breakfast, without wasting a moment, I visited the Taj Mahal. There are e-rickshaws to take you to the ticket counter from the main gate and they’re quite reasonable.  The rickshaw pullers will take you to the small indigenous shopping centre within the premisses. They have handicrafts form the region and is set up by the government to promote local art. 

From the ticket counter to the monument, there is quite a good walk. However, you can stop at various places to admire the beauty of the Taj Mahal. I was there when the sun was already moving up in the middle of the sky, but I couldn’t control my imagination how it would look during the wee hours of the day when there is mist in the air and the sun is just rising. That would be the picturesque moment one mustn’t miss. 

After spending some time there and refreshing my soul by the sheer beauty of the surrounding, I decided to move ahead in my journey. 

Raja Sumer Singh’s Fort – Etawah 

After driving on the Yamuna Expressway, it was time for me to drive on Agra-Lucknow Expressway. On the way, I decided to take a detour to another historical monument, Raja Sumer Singh’s Forst at Etawah. It is around 124 km from Agra and towards the south of the city. 

This fort has a rich history. It is also known as Barah Dwaar Kila, the fort with 12 doors. However, people have always failed to locate the 12th door. The original fort got damaged due to the natural wear and tear. The government re-built a fresh fort, which stands atop on the original structure. This is now been maintained by the government. 

The fort is next to the River Yamuna. Built on the hill close to the river, the legends say that the fort was known to have various tunnels or secret passages. Indeed, there is no comparison to its original structure, this fort still depicts the lavish lifestyle people had during that era. 

Kannauj – A City With Historical Importance

Kannauj, which was once the prominent city of northern India, is around 110 km from Etawah. It is established on the banks of Ganges. The city is rich in archaeological findings and they are all displayed at Government Archaeological Museum in the city. The department found various ancient artefacts, such as coins, pottery, sculptures, and terra cotta. These were, until recently, at the common man’s house and now are displayed at the museum. 

Upon studying them it was found that these belong to the different historical periods, right from the Maurya Empire of 325 BC to the Gupta Empire, which as between 319-600 AD. Besides these, some pre-historic bone were also found in the area. 

The list of must-visit was big, but I decided to pay a visit to the 500-year-old Siddheswar Temple on the banks of Ganges. This temple is known for its construction and faith. During the full-moon night in October (Sharad Purnima) a large number of devotees come to pray. During my visit, the rather quiet bank of Ganges turns into a bustling Mela ground during Sharad Purnima. 

Apart from the historical connection and amazing temples or historical monuments, Kannauj is also known for its perfumes. Before I make a move to Lucknow, I decided to buy some of the perfumes from here to remind me of my lovely trip to this ancient town. 

Kannauj to Lucknow – The Final Destination 

Kannauj was my last halt on my way to Delhi to Lucknow. From Kannauj, Lucknow is around 123 km from the Agra-Lucknow expressway. As I moved towards my final destination to Lucknow, I looked back at the halts I took and their historical significance. Be it Agra were I had a lovely trip to Agra and appreciated the token of love. Or, be it a walk at the Raja Sumer Singh’s Fort that’s full of mysteries. Or be a visit to 500-years-old Siddheshwar Temple on the banks of river Ganges. 

These small detours and halts did make this journey memorable. As far as Lucknow is concerned, it has got a rich history that can’t be explained in just words. As I went to all the historical monuments, like Rumi ka Darwaza, Chota Imambara, The Residency, Dilkusha Kothi, Safed Baradari, and others. 

Rumi Darwaza

If you’re also planning a road trip from Delhi to Lucknow via Agra, do keep in mind that these three halts, Agra, Etawah and Kannauj, are lovely places. You can either take a couple of days halt to roam around or can just take a small detour to enjoy the beauty of the city. Have a lovely trip! 

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The post A Road Trip Worth Remembering: Delhi – Lucknow Via Agra -+- appeared first on Roadtales.

The pristine woods will fill the void of your heart with happiness. Shillong receives the highest rainfall in the world and looks more lively during monsoons. Considering heavy rains are not favourable for road trips, we planned our expedition in the month of September when the rain is scant and the place is still very enjoyable.

The 99-km Guwahati-to-Shillong road trip is a 3-hour journey and is teeming with breathtaking scenery. We took the NH40 route, which is well connected and maintained. It drizzled lightly while we were travelling, which was enthralling and soothing.

On the GS Road, we took a short break and had refreshments at a local eatery and commenced our road trip.

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Places To Visit In Shillong

Shillong, the capital of Meghalaya, houses exciting places enthralling mountain peaks, museums that preserve and reflect Shillong history and culture, beautiful landscapes, waterfalls and more. It took us 3 hours 15 minutes to reach Shillong from Guwahati and we took a short halt and started exploring the ebbs and depths of mystic Shillong.

Umiam Lake

Ten kilometres from the north of Shillong lies a spectacular man-made reservoir that generates hydroelectric power to cater to the State’s electricity needs. The dam led to the formation of the beautiful Umiam Lake surrounded by the lush greenery of the East Khasi hills. We picnicked at a park adjoining the lake, went on a boat ride, clicked amazing pictures and watched the beautiful sundown. The eye-catching flora and fauna around the reservoir include coniferous forests sprawled over 222 square kilometres of land. We sat back and savoured the Gulmohar trees and the pleasant winds, and observed the daily life of the natives who came to the river for foraging twigs and grass, and fishermen paddling in the steady waters.

There are provisions for pedal boating, water scooter ride (5 to 10 minutes), speed boat, river bus ride (20 to 60 minutes) and water skiing at the lake from 9:00 am to 5:00 pm. 

Elephant Falls

The next day, we visited the most popular waterfalls in the country, Elephant Falls, which is 8 km from the city centre. During colonial rule, the British named these waterfalls after the elephant-shaped rock at the foot of the waterfalls. You don’t get to look at this elephant-like stone anymore as it was lost to an earthquake years ago. The locals now call these falls “Ka Kshaid Lai Pateng Khohsiew,” meaning the three-step waterfalls.

There are three waterfalls layered in succession, accessible to people from different vantage points. The top-most step of the waterfall is very broad and crammed between dense forests, the second step waterfall has thin waters that go obsolete during winters and the third step of the waterfall is the tallest with clear and milky-white water cascading from the black stones. We are in awe of these impressive waterfalls, especially the third step. This place also makes a great backdrop for pictures and will act as a great canvas for photography enthusiasts.

Shillong Peak

Towering at a height of 6,449 ft and 1,965 m above sea level, Shillong Peak is the highest point in Shillong. From this point, you can get a panoramic view of the entire city, the Himalayas and the Bangladesh plains. Telescopes are made available at this peak for the tourists to get a 360-degree view from the peak. We trekked our way to this amazing peak. Check the weather before scaling the peak, as the place may experience heavy snowfall and can be quite risky to climb.

It is believed that Shillong got its name from this peak and that the patron deity Lei Shyllong lives in this peak and protects the people from all evils. Rituals are conducted at a U Shulong site at this peak as it is considered sacred and spiritual. As the peak situated at the airforce base it houses the radar station of the Indian Air Force due to which high-security checkings are made at the entry point to the peak, so you need to carry a valid id proof with you.

Don Bosco Museum

If you want to learn the culture and tradition of North East India, you ought to visit Asia’s largest Museum of Indigenous Cultures, Don Bosco Museum, in the Mawlai area. The museum has 16 galleries showcasing artefacts, figurines, and paintings related to Northeastern culture in a seven-storey building. We experienced the local culture and got insights into the living and lifestyles of North-East people.

Prominent people from across the world, like the princess of Thailand, have visited this museum. The Don Bosco Museum also exhibits high architectural artwork with its hexagonal shape and is referred to as Shillong’s architectural pride. Art competitions are often held at this museum, so you will see many writers, artists, musicians, and lyricists from different parts of the country at this museum.

The museum is open from Monday to Saturday (9:00 am to 5:30 pm) during summers, and Monday to Saturday (9:00 am to 4:30 pm) in winters (December 1 to January 31). Entry fee is Rs. 100 for adults, Rs. 50 for students, and Rs. 200 for foreigners.

Ward’s Lake

Ward’s Lake is a simple yet popular picnic spot lying in the heart of Shillong; several locals and tourists come to this lake to unwind and spend time with loved ones. The lake is shaped like a horseshoe and is also known as Pollock’s Lake. We loved sitting near the lake and watching the colour play of flowerbeds and listening to the bird’s chirps. There is a small bridge created on the lake from where you can feed the fishes and watch. Paddle boating is also available at the lake.

The lake is open from 8:30 am to 5:20 pm during November to February, and 8:30 am to 7:00 pm during March to October. Entry fee for adults is Rs. 10 and for kids it is Rs. 5.

David Scott Trail

If you have an appetite for trekking, then you must scale the 16-km long David Scott Trail from Mawphlang to Lad Mawphlang. The trail has popular villages with rich culture, history and folklore. Directions to navigate the trail are not available. You have to ask locals to help you with this. There are breathtaking landscapes, rivers, cascading waters, massive rock formations, meadows and water streams along the trail, to keep you going.

If you start at the Mawphlang village, you will traverse through windy hills, mountains, and valleys. Take a short break at Ka Kor Ka Shonmai, explore the tomb of Camilia, experience the thrill of the hanging bridge over river Umain and listen to the folklores on the way to Lad Mawphlang.

Lady Hydari Park

Lady Hydari Park is the most popular park in Shillong, named after the first lady of Assam. The entrance of the park has a Japanese style garden that will catch the attention of the visitors. The round-shaped hedges and willow trees keep up the vibe of the park and connect to nature.

There is a small lake in the park where you can find ducks and colorful small fishes. There is a playing area for kids and the museum, zoo, and boating activities in the park which keep both kids and adults entertained. Even a leisurely stroll to the park on the paved walkways and manicured lawns is an experience in itself.

Sweet Falls

Located at 5 km from Happy Valley in Shillong, Sweet Falls is the steepest, most beautiful waterfall in India. But don’t let the name ‘Sweet Falls’ trick you because this mesmerizing waterfall is notoriously dangerous. The route to the falls is treacherous. The slippery stones make it even worse. Don’t plan a visit to this waterfall during monsoons. There are some stories of hauntings linked to this place. The locals say that people who visit these falls in odd numbers will return in even numbers.

The verdant greenery, butterfly museum, and a mini zoo at the waterfalls are also worth visiting. Government has restricted the place for visits for a while and marked the place as a danger zone due to accidents. With good safety measures and caution, you can make the most of this serene and amazing waterfall. Note, do not plunge into the waterfalls and wear slip-resistant shoes.

The vehicle entry fee for this falls is Rs. 70 and it takes 2 hours to tour the waterfalls.

There are countless museums in Shillong that preserve and feature the indigenous culture and history of Shillong. Every museum has its own grandeur; out of the wide list of museums in Shillong, The Butterfly Museum, Wankhar Entomology Museum, The Arunachal State Museum, Meghalaya State Museum, and the Rhino Museum are must-visits.

Shillong is a spellbindingly beautiful city, and you need to invest time to explore this magical place.

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The post Guwahati to Shillong: A Picturesque Road Journey. appeared first on Roadtales.

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• Convoy Control Club 

The Convoy Control Club is a group of motorcycle riders spread across the country. They’re based in Jaipur, and conduct all-India rides with a social cause all the time. One of the most inspiring things about CCC is that they only allow riders with a physical disability. 

• Assam Bikers’ Club 

As the name suggests, Assam Bikers’ Club (ABC) is based in Assam. They’re a mixed group of motorcycle riders with a passion to open up their land to the world. Generally, the largest motorcycle riding clubs are the RE ones, but that’s what sets ABC apart. Everyone’s allowed. The group has risen to fame thanks to a number of brand sponsorships and event management contracts. 

• Mumbai Musafirs 

The Mumbai Musafirs was (and still is) one of the most professionally-run motorcycle clubs in India. There’s an admin panel, support staff, planning staff and accounts staff, along with a marketing team that make sure that the overall operations run as smoothly as a well-oiled chain. They were born in 2011, and till date, have covered lakhs and lakhs of kms together. All you need to participate is to sign up on their website. 

• 60kph

60kph is an all-India motorcycle group founded in 2002. The group ethos revolves around smaller groups and long distances. The minimum ride distance is 500km, so it’s going to be tough for a newbie to step into 60kph without some experience. 

• Naked Wolves 

Naked Wolves only allow Pulsar 200-NS owners. It’s one of the first offline brand-loyal motorcycle clubs in the country. NW has chapters in 12 cities in India, and in 5 cities abroad, with numbers rising as Bajaj expands operations all over the world. Naked Wolves has a strong adventurous streak in them, and they also organise and shoot stunt videos. 

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• Teesta Thumpers Motorcycle Club 

In case you’re still wondering, West Bengal is very much a hotbed of motorcycling activity. Key to this is the state’s proximity to the North-East, and hill stations like Darjeeling, Kurseong and others, which until recently were only considered honeymooners’ haunts. Teesta Thumpers was founded in 2013, and since then, has organised and participated in almost every major motorcycling meet in India. As the name suggests, you will need to purchase a Royal Enfield to participate in their events. 

• Nagaland Motorcycle Club 

Nagaland is one of the most beautiful states in India, and to know all about the state, follow the Nagaland Motorcycle Club. This group of tough and rugged riders was founded in 2010, and if you scroll through their news updates, you’ll see how much they’re doing to promote tourism in the state. Most of their rides require expert-level off-roading skills, by the way 

• Bangalore Jawa Yezdi Motorcycle Club

The Bangalore Jawa Yezdi Motorcycle Club is a vintage enthusiasts’ club founded in Bangalore in 2008. Over the years, they have added thousands of followers and active riders to their social and off-line channels. They also organise events to celebrate the history of Jawa Motorcycles, an iconic brand that swept teenagers off their feet in the 60s and the 70s. If you own a Jawa and are looking for a spare part that’s long gone out of production, BJYMC is your best bet. They have chapters across the country, but they’re based in Bangalore. 

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• Bajaj Avenger Club 

Not to be confused with Bajaj’s Avenger Gods, the Bajaj Avenger Club is a self-sufficient guild of Avenger riders founded a decade ago. The first chapter started in Bengaluru, and they have now expanded all over the country. The Bajaj Avenger Club is a brand-loyal club, and their rides have some of the highest attendances in India. When there’s a BAC ride, you’ll see hundreds of their bikes trundling along, expertly piloted by experienced riders. 

• Inddie Thumpers 

Inddie Thumpers is a Bullet-only motorcycle group that was founded in 2001, back when riding for pleasure was almost unheard of. Over the years, the Inddie Thumpers clan grew big, and soon they started organising events. IT has held the Rider Mania twice, in 2005 and 2010, and that’s considered a great honour for a motorcycling club. They’re spread all across the country and abroad.

• Dukes of Nagpur 

Nagpur, the centre-point of India, is also a huge hub of motorcycling activity all throughout the year. One of the biggest clubs in Nagpur is DON, a KTM-centric motorcycle riding fraternity that has made off-roading it’s own. The group is led by an expert team of medical professionals and other highly-experienced people and is the go-to club for all new riders in Nagpur. 

• Palampur Bikers Club 

The Palampur Bikers Club was founded in 2010 by a group of adventure enthusiasts in Palampur, Himachal Pradesh. Over the years, they’ve expanded operations into the tourism business. Along with that, PBC also supports a number of key initiatives for better tourism and a cleaner environment. This is one biking club you have to check out the next time you visit Himachal Pradesh. 

• Warriors Motorcycle Club 

A relatively new player, Warriors Motorcycle Club is a Royal Enfield-only biking group with chapters in Mumbai, Pune and Vadodara. The group was formed in 2016 and has started to gain attention because of their high-quality riders and their strong support of social causes. 

• Call Of Riders Biking Club 

CORBC for short, the Call of Riders Biking Club was actually formed by colleagues (later best friends) who worked at the same organisation. The group consists of like-minded motorcycle enthusiasts who ride everything under the sun. The best part about CORBC is their iconic ride start signal, which is a tune played by honking their horns. 

• Lady Riders of India 

If you’re new to the biking scene, then you should definitely read up on one Dr.Maral Yarzaloo-Pattrick. Let’s just say she’s the hardest lady rider ever to kick-start a motorcycle. She holds a world record for clocking the most kilometres on a single bike (250,000). And when she starts her own all-female club, you know it’s special. Lady Riders of India, founded in 2016, in Pune, is exclusively for female riders who own big bikes (650cc and above). 

On the whole, we’ve barely scratched the surface when it comes to listing the best motorcycling clubs in the country. But you need to realise that the best motorcycling club in the world is one that lets you be who you are, and rides at a pace you’re comfortable with. Whether it’s big or small, a good motorcycle club is made up of good people. And that’s what counts. 

Also Read – Top 5 Tyre Brands for Two-Wheelers In India

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Many people go to the extent of customising their vehicles by decorating them with flashy stickers and other types of add-ons. At times, the affection carries over to the interiors, when owners go all out decking out their vehicles as lavishly as possible. There was a time when one had to make all the upgrades to the paint job, upholstery and the overall cosmetics of their vehicle by sweating away in a workshop for hours, trying to get it right. Now, however, you can buy cars and bikes accessories all online.

Here’s our list of the most useful interior and exterior accessories for cars and bikes. 

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• Pillow Neck Rest

Pillow neck rests are great if you drive for more than a 100 km a day. They can be fixed to the back of the driver and/or passenger front seat. A pillow neck rest is made out of soft fibre material and should offer firm support to the area behind the neck. The best ones are covered with nylon or a sweat-absorbent material. 

• Glass Cleaning Tablets 

A glass-cleaning tablet is a lot like dry soap powder. All you need to do is to mix it with water, and you have a detergent solution. Normal window shampoos make quite a mess. Glass cleaning tablets are easier to store, and can be used in any weather. They work well on motorcycle headlight covers, helmet visors and rear-view mirrors, too 

• Fast Charger

A fast charger is compatible with most phones that use adaptive charging. This protects your phone from heating up while charging. Car chargers also come with a number of USB slots, so you can charge other gadgets, or plugin a travel adapter with multiple outlets if you have more than one phone. While purchasing one, make sure you go for a branded one. A short-circuit will be disastrous.

• Portable Vacuum Cleaner 

 Portable Vacuum cleaners do a great job of keeping your car’s interiors spic and span. While purchasing one, make sure you get the longest possible power cord and at least two flexible heads. The longer power cords make it easy to reach under the seats and in spaces otherwise inaccessible. Flexible hoses let you clean dust and dirt under your doormats. 

• Seat Organisers 

An organiser can be fixed to the back of a car seat. It has a number of pockets and zipped attachments where you can store essentials like medicines, water, and emergency rations. It can also be used for storing your documents, and baby supplies– if you like going on long drives with your family. 

• Tank Bags 

Tank Bags are a great way to carry all your essentials while on a long bike ride. They come in various shapes and sizes. Depending on your motorcycle, they can be attached magnetically or with straps. While buying tank bags, select something that comes with protective flaps — it protects your tank from scratches while mounting and removing the bags. Tank bags should be big enough to store your helmet and must be waterproof. 

• Motorcycle Side Bags 

Motorcycle side bags are also called saddlebags. They come handy if you’re a long-distance rider. While buying one, make sure you go for a design that has as few straps as possible. Too many straps will run the risk of fouling with the rear wheels. There have been cases when the bags have actually caught fire because of friction due to fouling with the wheels. 

• Motorcycle Top Cases

If you want to do away with soft motorcycle luggage, a top case is a good idea.  A top case is a rigid suitcase that fits firmly on the rear end of a motorcycle. Top cases generally come with their own mounts. Some even have in-built coolers, warmers and lights. They’re quite expensive but are tough, sturdy and weather-proof. You will need practice riding with a top-case, though. 

• Aftermarket Palm Grips 

Holding a motorcycle throttle grip is a technique most overlook. You need to slide your palm to speed up. Most riders, on the other hand, tend to ‘choke’ the grip, hurting their fingers in the process. Thankfully, there are a lot of gel-filled motorcycle palm grips out there that absorb all the force and prevent pain. 

• Raised Handlebars 

Most adventure bikes come factory-fitted with raised handlebars. That’s because the more upright your riding posture, the easier it is to cover long distances. Raised handlebars maintain this upright posture by keeping your elbows at a near-90-degree angle to your torso. This reduces lumbar muscle strain. 

• Reflective Stickers 

Retro-reflective decals look great at night, and also make night drives and ride safer. When the headlights from a vehicle in front of or behind you bounce off a reflective sticker, the retro-reflective properties of the material illuminate it. This increases your visibility to other motorists. 

• Hazard Lights 

Hazard lights are useful while riding information or when visibility is low. Remember, there’s a much higher chance of being rear-ended than actually smashing into a vehicle in front. Hazard lights are operated by a segment-switched LED controller, so you don’t need to replace your lights. They’re best installed on turn indicators, as they consume the least power. 

• Magnetic Sunshades 

Magnetic sunshades are lined with a permanent magnetic material that fixes on to the window sill of a car. When fixed firmly, a magnetic sunshade can be used even when the windows are lowered. They’re best used in the rear-side windows, as they also provide privacy and protection from the elements. Some are waterproof, too.

• LED DRLs

DRLs or Daytime Running Lights make a car stand out during the day and at night. You see, the human eye detects brighter objects faster than dull ones. Hence, a brightly-coloured DRL, if placed appropriately, will make your vehicle easily detectable in the day and at night. DRLs are made out of LED strips and can be used for cars and bikes alike.

• Bluetooth Hands-Free Mics

Since answering a phone call, no matter how urgent, is illegal in India, a Bluetooth hands-free device may do the trick. It plugs into the power socket of a car, and when paired with your phone, streams calls and messages through a pair of speakers (from the sound system that comes installed in every car). Some BT devices also come with their own speaker systems and are small enough to be carried home. 

• Bluetooth Speakers

Bluetooth speakers are a great way to listen to music while riding a motorcycle. All you need is a mount, which you can either fabricate or purchase online. Mounting them on the tank is the best option.  Make sure that the speakers are waterproof and light enough to be carried home. You should also be able to charge them using the portable mobile charger power outlet. 

• Steering Covers 

If you have small hands, you may have a problem gripping the steering wheel firmly. Since changing the whole steering wheel is a costly fix, a much cheaper option is to fix grippy steering wheel covers. Good wheel covers are made out of rubber and have ribs and spikes, much like soccer boots. Some are perforated, too. They’re available at most accessory shops, and can also be purchased online. 

While accessorising your vehicle, make sure you’re quite clear about what the law says you can and can’t do. Check out the latest amendments to the Motor Vehicle Bill. Generally, any modification that goes over and above manufacturer specs is considered illegal. This means no air horns, no tinted windows (especially the blacked-out ones), oversized wheels, or aftermarket exhausts. While most accessories merely tune up the looks, many turn out to be quite useful. We always recommend function over form. 

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Luckily, there are a number of great trekking places around Mumbai that would please any trekking enthusiast. Prabalgad Fort is one of them. After multiple delays in the plan, it finally came to fruition. 

How to Reach Prabalgad Fort 

Prabalgad Trek is located near Panvel and is 65 km from Mumbai. We drove till Panvel from where we headed to Thakurwadi, which is the base village for the trek. We grabbed an early bite from our homes itself so that we didn’t have to stop on the way. 

However, if you can’t do that, you can stop at McDonald’s in Panvel. It opens early in the morning and you can have a good breakfast there. 

More About Prabalgad Fort

Also known as Pradhangad or Muranjan, the Prabalgad Fort lies at a majestic height of 2,300 feet or 701 metres. This is a moderate trek that even beginners can finish easily. It was built by the Bahmani Sultanate and the fort witnessed the rise and fall of powerful kingdoms, such as the Marathas and the Mughals. 

Prabalgad Fort is settled on a top of a plateau and consists of a sister fort which is named Irshalgad Fort. Another fortress close to Prabalgad Fort, Kalavantin Durg, is one of the most difficult treks in Maharashtra. It shares the same base village as Prabalgad and is famously known as one of the world’s most dangerous treks due to its steep climb. 

As we trekked our way up, we took a ton of pictures and stopped at multiple spots to enjoy the views. Make sure you don’t rush through the trek; rather enjoy it at your own pace. There is a lot that this trek offers, which can only be experienced if you are present in the moment instead of focusing on reaching the top as soon as possible. 

Stay at Prabalgad Fort

After you trek, you can come back to Thakurwadi village to stay for the night. The locals are warm and welcoming. That being said, camps are one of the most popular ways people choose to stay.

You can pitch your tent on the open land near the fort and sleep under the starry skies. It is a one-of-a-kind experience that you wouldn’t want to miss. Inform the concerned people beforehand if you want to stay in a tent. Or you can carry your own tent and set up camp wherever you want. 

We chose to stay in a tent and I must say it was one of the most incredible experiences ever. At the end of the day, we were all tired from the trek and a calm night under the stars was exactly what we needed.  

Food at Prabalgad Fort

There are a number of snack shacks on the way to the fort. However, it would be wise to carry sufficient food and bottled water with you on the trek. 

There is a home restaurant in the village where you can place an order for the food to take for the tent stay. They serve authentic, lip-smacking Maharashtrian food. We packed it and took it with us on the trek.

We ate so much that walking further didn’t seem possible. But, eating such a delicious meal after the trek was truly a delight. 

Places to Visit Nearby

If you have more time on your hands and feel like you could take on a bigger challenge, head over to what is considered as one of the most dangerous treks in the world – Kalavantin Durg. 

Kalavantin Durg

According to a legend, it was built in honour of Queen Kalavantin. Once you reach the top, you will have stunning views but the climb itself has a notorious reputation. The terrain is rugged with narrow cut steps. The scariest part is that there is no support to these steps which makes the trek equally dangerous yet adrenaline-filled. 

The trek is also known as ‘Climb to Heaven’ as you get a heavenly, bird’s eye view of the surroundings when you reach the top.

You should avoid this trek if you have vertigo as it’ll prove to be extremely dangerous. You might get dizzy and getting down would be next to impossible in such a scenario. 

What to Carry?

If you do not pack the right things before the trek, you may not enjoy it as much as you could. Here are some things that you must carry:

• ID proof 
• Dry foods like snacks 
• Bottled Water (at least 2 bottles)
• First aid kit – keep sprays or gels for sprains and band-aids for any sorts of cuts and bruises. 
• Cap, sunglasses, and sunscreen to protect yourself from the sun
• Rain gear if you choose to go during the monsoons
• Torch with extra cells if you plan to camp there
• Hydrating and energy drinks 
• Energy bars
• Napkins and towels
• A good rucksack to carry all your essentials 

Make sure you wear comfortable clothes and the right pair of trekking shoes. Do not even attempt to trek in your regular shoes and sandals. Carry a camera to capture your trek. A phone camera would also work but make sure you take a ton of pictures. This trek is worth looking back on. 

It was a one-day trip was for us. Though we wanted to do the Kalavantin Durg trek, we couldn’t due to the lack of time. Well, it is a journey for some other time. Thankfully, the Prabalgad Fort trek was an easy one so we weren’t too sore the next day. It was truly a day well spent. 

If you are trekking enthusiast and haven’t been to this fort yet, it’s high time you did!  

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Day 10: Chumathang to Leh City

I woke up after a warm night’s sleep, the warmest in Ladakh, to begin the last day in the region. I packed my luggage and loaded up Ebony. In stark contrast to all the cold mornings, Ebony started instantly. The warm night and the instant start were attributed to the natural hot spring, which the valley was known for. I stayed in a budget hotel next to it. I let the engine heat up in idle and moved toward the compound to gaze at the sight in front of me. 

A hundred metres ahead, the hot spring released waves of vapours into the atmosphere. A little farther, the teal-coloured River Indus flowed north-west towards Leh which became my navigational guide for the day. 

The bike had idled long enough and it was time for me to get on the saddle. The road leading out of Chumathang was broken but was better than the road from Lukung to Chushul. My mind drifted back to the days I had spent in Pangong Tso, Nubra Valley, Khardung La, Lamayuru and Leh city. And further back to a burning thought that was the reason behind me starting this ride. 

Bangalore, the place of my birth, is the only city I’ve called home. My father and his fathers have their roots in Devanahalli, which is an hour away from Bangalore. In the 80’s he came here to study and eventually built a life for himself and the family. I came into this world in 1994 in the Kempegowda Institute of Medical Sciences hospital. I studied up till tenth grade in St. Claret High school and the next two years in Vidya Mandir Pre-University College. I graduated with a Bachelor’s degree in mechanical engineering from Sir. M Visvesvaraya Institute of Technology. All of my extended family live in Bangalore and so do all of my oldest and most of my closest friends. Bangalore, a city close to my heart, a city I shall always call ‘Home’. Yet, for the longest time, I’ve felt estranged here.

Like every other soul on this planet, I’ve been searching for that place which has my name written all over it. After riding through 20 of the Indian states in 2018, I thought I’d found it – Mumbai. I fell head over heels in love with the city of dreams! The hyper-fast life, the energetic people and the ambition that seemed to be dosed in the air of Mumbai drew me in like a flame that draws a moth. As a young adult, with eyes on the business world and making wealth, Mumbai seemed to be the perfect fit. But life had other plans. 

I had completed my previous trip ‘Long Way Round‘ in April of 2018 after which, I had a choice to either get back to work and travel once in a year or live life by and for travel. I had chosen the former. In May 2019, I went on a short 4 day ride to Kerala and this is what I had posted on my Instagram (@mentlmanja).

“Man, I had an amazing time these four days. I really needed it and I’m so glad I decided to take this break from work. But I’ve been wanting too many breaks, haven’t I?  Well, it doesn’t matter, I’ve got to push through it because I need the money to keep travelling like this” I said to myself. 

It felt good that my mind was looping back to the thought that I had on the day that I’d started this ride – the quest to understand this unexplainable, ununderstandable “want” to earn big money.

Ten years back, my family could not afford most of the stuff that we can today. My father gave his blood and sweat for his work and sacrificed ALL of his wants for the family and to get us to the place we are in today. He had to do it all alone as mum was a house maker. But no matter how tough it got, my parents made sure that my sister and I had a happy childhood and gave us all that we needed without a second thought. But giving us things of ‘want’ was something they had to think upon deeply. 

I remember an evening when I was in my 4th grade. My old rusty second – hand bicycle which I’d named Raja had been stolen a few months earlier. As a kid, I loved riding a bicycle! (perhaps my love for riding motorcycles began then) and I desperately craved for a new one. I asked Appa for a new Hercules, one of the popular brands then, that was priced Rs. 2500/-. An amount that was not as easy to earn then as it is today. He asked me to wait another year and I broke into tears! I threw myself on the floor and begged him for two hours! Unable to see me so sad, he finally took me out to fulfil my desire. 

A stark contrast to our limited lifestyle was that of my uncle, who was a man of rich taste. He indulged in the luxuries of life to which I was a witness. And I guess that influenced me. For the longest time, I’ve dreamt of wearing a Hugo Boss suit and a Tag Heuer watch, chauffeured in a BMW 7 Series to a 5 – star hotel to meet with HNI clients. For the longest time, I’ve wanted to live the ‘high life’. 

Maybe, the reason I chose to get back to work once I returned from Long Way Round was partly to live that life of extravagance, which I got to do this year. I got to indulge in some of the ‘rich’ experiences that I, as a kid, saw my uncle indulge in. I thought they’d make me happy but they never seemed to satisfy my heart. Something was missing. 

I joined this company with the sole intention to earn. Maybe the motivation to work for money has dwindled down since the life funded by that earning isn’t fully satisfying. Maybe, that’s why I’ve been wanting too many breaks lately. 

“I believe that a person finds motivation to work for three reasons – passion, money or gratitude”, I had stated in an IGTV video that I’d made. ‘Working for money’ could mean ‘working for sustenance’ and/or ‘working for bigger aspirations in life’ and at the time, I didn’t see a distinction between the two. After this trip, I see that they are two sides of a coin. ‘Working for bigger aspirations in life’ is a lot like passion, heck, it is a passion. It requires unwavering determination, relentless dedication and ceaseless effort. Earning ‘big money’ was surely a big desire of mine, considering it’s been with me for ages, but I knew that it certainly was not my passion. 

These four days of riding have given me more happiness than all the other experiences I’ve had in the city in the year that went by. Maybe, the road is where I ought to be.” 

What I was missing was the beat of my heart and my heart would beat only on the motorcycle. A city, any city, any luxury would not make me “dil se happy”. The path ahead was clear. 

The dream of living the ‘high life’ was retired, framed and placed on the mantle as a memory of a former self. 

I put my papers down in the last week of June ’19, spent four months trying to find a sustainable way to live a life of travelling. Once I did, I got on the saddle to ride the great Himalayas.

And that brings me to this final day in Ladakh. Where a long quest seemed to have come to an end. I had finally found what I was looking for – the place where I felt belonged. It was on the road and in the vast, barren, cold, magnificent land that I’d come to love so dearly. 

Ebony had to be returned that evening, which left me with little time to explore the many points of interest that lined the road to Leh. 

Stakna Gompa 

The first was Stakna Gompa. Gompa means monastery in Ladakhi. Gonpa, Gumba are other versions of the same. The monastery looked majestic on top of the hill, with the blue background. Unfortunately, I couldn’t go in. 

Stakna Gompa

Thiksey Gompa

Like I’d mentioned, this road is lined with attractions. After a very short time on the road from Stakna, I took a right towards Thiksey monastery. I was stopped immediately by the imposing view of the Gompa and the traditional Ladakhi houses built around it. I rode to the top and made my way back down to head to Shey Monastery. Then to the Druk Padma Karpo School where the iconic Bollywood film ‘3 idiots’ was shot. The Choglamsar Gompa had to be savoured from a farther distance. 

Shey Monastery

Druk Padma Karpo School

Choglamsar Gompa

NH 1: Srinagar – Leh

I reached Leh by 5 P.M. and dropped my dear Ebony off with whom I’d travelled for ten days and enjoyed every single moment. 

Ebony

A stone’s throw away from the bike rental shop was a German cafe with an open courtyard. As the sky turned dark, I sat relaxed at the centre table and sipped on a cup of piping hot tea. The owner, Stanzin, an adorable and sweet woman kept me company till I finished my cup. In a way, she was the personification of Ladakh with her kindness, beauty and joy. 

Day 11: Leh – Delhi 

A shared cab dropped me off at the very busy Kushok Bakula Rinpoche Airport of Leh city at 6 in the morning where I boarded my flight to the Indira Gandhi International Airport of a very smoggy Delhi. The first order of business upon landing was to pick up my sweetheart – El Poderosa! 

Up next: Leg #2 – Spiti 

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