The pristine woods will fill the void of your heart with happiness. Shillong receives the highest rainfall in the world and looks more lively during monsoons. Considering heavy rains are not favourable for road trips, we planned our expedition in the month of September when the rain is scant and the place is still very enjoyable.

The 99-km Guwahati-to-Shillong road trip is a 3-hour journey and is teeming with breathtaking scenery. We took the NH40 route, which is well connected and maintained. It drizzled lightly while we were travelling, which was enthralling and soothing.

On the GS Road, we took a short break and had refreshments at a local eatery and commenced our road trip.

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Places To Visit In Shillong

Shillong, the capital of Meghalaya, houses exciting places enthralling mountain peaks, museums that preserve and reflect Shillong history and culture, beautiful landscapes, waterfalls and more. It took us 3 hours 15 minutes to reach Shillong from Guwahati and we took a short halt and started exploring the ebbs and depths of mystic Shillong.

Umiam Lake

Ten kilometres from the north of Shillong lies a spectacular man-made reservoir that generates hydroelectric power to cater to the State’s electricity needs. The dam led to the formation of the beautiful Umiam Lake surrounded by the lush greenery of the East Khasi hills. We picnicked at a park adjoining the lake, went on a boat ride, clicked amazing pictures and watched the beautiful sundown. The eye-catching flora and fauna around the reservoir include coniferous forests sprawled over 222 square kilometres of land. We sat back and savoured the Gulmohar trees and the pleasant winds, and observed the daily life of the natives who came to the river for foraging twigs and grass, and fishermen paddling in the steady waters.

There are provisions for pedal boating, water scooter ride (5 to 10 minutes), speed boat, river bus ride (20 to 60 minutes) and water skiing at the lake from 9:00 am to 5:00 pm. 

Elephant Falls

The next day, we visited the most popular waterfalls in the country, Elephant Falls, which is 8 km from the city centre. During colonial rule, the British named these waterfalls after the elephant-shaped rock at the foot of the waterfalls. You don’t get to look at this elephant-like stone anymore as it was lost to an earthquake years ago. The locals now call these falls “Ka Kshaid Lai Pateng Khohsiew,” meaning the three-step waterfalls.

There are three waterfalls layered in succession, accessible to people from different vantage points. The top-most step of the waterfall is very broad and crammed between dense forests, the second step waterfall has thin waters that go obsolete during winters and the third step of the waterfall is the tallest with clear and milky-white water cascading from the black stones. We are in awe of these impressive waterfalls, especially the third step. This place also makes a great backdrop for pictures and will act as a great canvas for photography enthusiasts.

Shillong Peak

Towering at a height of 6,449 ft and 1,965 m above sea level, Shillong Peak is the highest point in Shillong. From this point, you can get a panoramic view of the entire city, the Himalayas and the Bangladesh plains. Telescopes are made available at this peak for the tourists to get a 360-degree view from the peak. We trekked our way to this amazing peak. Check the weather before scaling the peak, as the place may experience heavy snowfall and can be quite risky to climb.

It is believed that Shillong got its name from this peak and that the patron deity Lei Shyllong lives in this peak and protects the people from all evils. Rituals are conducted at a U Shulong site at this peak as it is considered sacred and spiritual. As the peak situated at the airforce base it houses the radar station of the Indian Air Force due to which high-security checkings are made at the entry point to the peak, so you need to carry a valid id proof with you.

Don Bosco Museum

If you want to learn the culture and tradition of North East India, you ought to visit Asia’s largest Museum of Indigenous Cultures, Don Bosco Museum, in the Mawlai area. The museum has 16 galleries showcasing artefacts, figurines, and paintings related to Northeastern culture in a seven-storey building. We experienced the local culture and got insights into the living and lifestyles of North-East people.

Prominent people from across the world, like the princess of Thailand, have visited this museum. The Don Bosco Museum also exhibits high architectural artwork with its hexagonal shape and is referred to as Shillong’s architectural pride. Art competitions are often held at this museum, so you will see many writers, artists, musicians, and lyricists from different parts of the country at this museum.

The museum is open from Monday to Saturday (9:00 am to 5:30 pm) during summers, and Monday to Saturday (9:00 am to 4:30 pm) in winters (December 1 to January 31). Entry fee is Rs. 100 for adults, Rs. 50 for students, and Rs. 200 for foreigners.

Ward’s Lake

Ward’s Lake is a simple yet popular picnic spot lying in the heart of Shillong; several locals and tourists come to this lake to unwind and spend time with loved ones. The lake is shaped like a horseshoe and is also known as Pollock’s Lake. We loved sitting near the lake and watching the colour play of flowerbeds and listening to the bird’s chirps. There is a small bridge created on the lake from where you can feed the fishes and watch. Paddle boating is also available at the lake.

The lake is open from 8:30 am to 5:20 pm during November to February, and 8:30 am to 7:00 pm during March to October. Entry fee for adults is Rs. 10 and for kids it is Rs. 5.

David Scott Trail

If you have an appetite for trekking, then you must scale the 16-km long David Scott Trail from Mawphlang to Lad Mawphlang. The trail has popular villages with rich culture, history and folklore. Directions to navigate the trail are not available. You have to ask locals to help you with this. There are breathtaking landscapes, rivers, cascading waters, massive rock formations, meadows and water streams along the trail, to keep you going.

If you start at the Mawphlang village, you will traverse through windy hills, mountains, and valleys. Take a short break at Ka Kor Ka Shonmai, explore the tomb of Camilia, experience the thrill of the hanging bridge over river Umain and listen to the folklores on the way to Lad Mawphlang.

Lady Hydari Park

Lady Hydari Park is the most popular park in Shillong, named after the first lady of Assam. The entrance of the park has a Japanese style garden that will catch the attention of the visitors. The round-shaped hedges and willow trees keep up the vibe of the park and connect to nature.

There is a small lake in the park where you can find ducks and colorful small fishes. There is a playing area for kids and the museum, zoo, and boating activities in the park which keep both kids and adults entertained. Even a leisurely stroll to the park on the paved walkways and manicured lawns is an experience in itself.

Sweet Falls

Located at 5 km from Happy Valley in Shillong, Sweet Falls is the steepest, most beautiful waterfall in India. But don’t let the name ‘Sweet Falls’ trick you because this mesmerizing waterfall is notoriously dangerous. The route to the falls is treacherous. The slippery stones make it even worse. Don’t plan a visit to this waterfall during monsoons. There are some stories of hauntings linked to this place. The locals say that people who visit these falls in odd numbers will return in even numbers.

The verdant greenery, butterfly museum, and a mini zoo at the waterfalls are also worth visiting. Government has restricted the place for visits for a while and marked the place as a danger zone due to accidents. With good safety measures and caution, you can make the most of this serene and amazing waterfall. Note, do not plunge into the waterfalls and wear slip-resistant shoes.

The vehicle entry fee for this falls is Rs. 70 and it takes 2 hours to tour the waterfalls.

There are countless museums in Shillong that preserve and feature the indigenous culture and history of Shillong. Every museum has its own grandeur; out of the wide list of museums in Shillong, The Butterfly Museum, Wankhar Entomology Museum, The Arunachal State Museum, Meghalaya State Museum, and the Rhino Museum are must-visits.

Shillong is a spellbindingly beautiful city, and you need to invest time to explore this magical place.

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Hunder to Pangong Lake :

Mr. Glen Livet made waking up a tad bit difficult for the lot of us, yet we managed to get on the road at a very early 8 a.m. (very early for me!). Me on my Ebony (my rented RE 500) and Jae, Saji, Arun and Geraldine in the XUV 500 headed towards the sand dunes of Nubra Valley. With the sun slowly rising behind the gargantuan peaks, the desert lit up like an Indian bride on her wedding day.

The road from Hunder to Pangong Tso (Tso means Lake in Tibetan) takes about 5 hours and goes alongside the River Shyok till Shyok village and this road like all the others in Ladakh is filled with wonder! Even after 8 days of riding in Ladakh, the landscape continued to surprise me and fill me with wonderment on how this heavenly land came to be. Some mountains are made of some sort of rock while some seem to be just piles of sand, some are grey in colour, some are green, some yellow, some purple and some with a mix of a million shades of brown. Never in all of India had I seen this landscape where there’s absolutely nothing but in that nothingness there’s everything! For long I’d abstained myself from going to Ladakh as it was on the mouths of every wannabe biker in India and assumed it to be just an overrated holiday destination, but man was I happy to be wrong! 

I rode on dirt and gravel for most of the hundred-odd kilometres till Shyok village along which I got to do some tiny river crossings, well you can call them stream or puddle crossings as it was the beginning of winter and the water levels were quite low.

After Tangste though, the roads were arrow straight, pitch black and butter smooth! And the best part about travelling to Ladakh in October which is the end of the tourist season is that there are hardly any vehicles on the road! So empty that the gang and I had a makeshift photography studio right on the road with the clear blue skies as one of the most perfect backgrounds that one can imagine!

My friends had to return to Leh city that very night so we kept moving and in an hour we reached Lukung Village of Pangong Tso. Pangong has 4 main villages on its banks on the Indian side – Lukung, Spangmik, Man and Merak and some smaller villages. The majority of the lake is in the Tibetan a.k.a Chinese side.

The 5 of us got down to the shores of the pristine, multi-blue coloured Lake, jumped around like little kids, took more pictures, shared more stories and made more memories till it was time to bid goodbye to them. I’ve had the blessing of meeting hundreds of people in my travels, but it’s not always that I find someone, in this case, a group of people that I got along so well. I wished I had more time with them. To date, I miss the company of Jae, Saji, Arun and Geraldine. 

Lukung had only a few campsites operating at the end of October and I’d chosen one for the night’s rest. A night which was probably colder than the one in Lamayuru (Day 3) owing to the cold winds blowing over the vast lake. Google had forecast the temperature to be -5° C. But even with my sleeping bag and a couple of rugs on top, it certainly felt a lot colder than that.

Day 9:

Lukung to Tso Moriri

Fortunately, being in Ladakh for more than a week, I’d gotten used to the cold and I could manage to sleep quite well which was essential for the very long day ahead. With no cellular network and neither offline nor paper maps, I had to rely on people for directions.

“Take the road right alongside the lake and in three hours you’ll reach Chushul and from there Tso Moriri is just another 4 hours,” said the owner of the campsite with great certainty. He added, “The roads are all Kaccha (dirt roads) but it’s not too difficult”. I took off with his suggestion and got lost three times in the first half-hour. There was a tarred road for a short distance but it was either split into bits by landslides or just wasn’t complete, which got quite frustrating. There were several trails available to keep moving forward, but with so many options came confusion. The trails were a mix of sand, talcum sand (the tricky one), gravel and rock. If I had my bike which was much more capable (with the tyres) to handle these terrains, I would not have worried. But the RE had road tyres and I did not want to get stuck with no vehicles nor people around to help me if I did. I slowly reached Spangmik, asked for directions, continued to Man, asked for directions and finally reached Merak. The trail took me inside the village wherein after a turn I came across a steep ascent. I hadn’t looked far ahead enough to rev the bike right and ended up losing power very close to the top. And once you lose power on an ascent, especially on gravel, it’s almost impossible to regain traction from that point. One has to make their way back. 

Pangong Tso is at an altitude of approximately 11,500 feet and some bikes suffer from altitude sickness here. They lose the capacity to rev high and climb steeper ascents. While freer-flowing air filters make a difference, I wasn’t going to buy one for a rented motorcycle. Furthermore technique is far more useful and effective (till it’s not!). 

There was a school on the other side of the road. When the kids saw me get stuck close to the top they all came running towards me, along with two men. I slowly began walking my bike down in reverse but soon lost control and dropped the bike over myself. I saw the kids who had their curious eyes on me break out with laughter and looking at them I too joined them! It was such a silly way to fall! I’d forgotten my training where Sanjay and Deepak (my trainers) had taught me that first I should always look as far ahead as possible, choose a path and then twist the throttle appropriately! In the event of getting stuck (like how I had) I was taught to always kill the ignition switch and control the bike with the clutch and not just the brakes to move back down. The exact opposite of what I’d just done.

The two men helped me up and I got the bike back down to take another shot at the incline. I told them I feared that the bike could still not make the ascent so they offered to push the bike in case I got stuck again. With that confidence, I revved all the way up (to 4000 rpm!) and reached the top! 

It had taken me more than two hours to reach Merak and according to the information by the campsite owner, I was supposed to reach Chushul in an hour. And the next hour went something like this, have you ever seen a movie where the protagonist rides a motorcycle on an absolutely empty road and his position is fixed in the frame but the landscape behind him keeps changing? An effect that filmmakers use to portray a faster passage of time? In my head, it felt like I was the protagonist! Cause man, the road just did not end! Well, until it did, three hours later.

The fuel gauge blinked as I reached Chushul, which was the biggest of the small villages, yet had no fuel pump. I found a small shop which sold loose fuel and topped up my tank. While I was having my lunch (a packet of Parle G biscuits) an ITBP Officer parked next to me. We had a brief conversation and I asked him about the route ahead. “Don’t take the dirt road further, it’ll take you many hours to reach Tso Moriri, instead take the road to Mahe. It is 60 kilometres longer but the road is new and you can cover the distance faster” he said. And he was right! The road ahead was incredible! My average speed from less than 10 kilometres an hour until Chushul rose to around 30 kilometres an hour. What he did not tell me though, was that this road too would seem never-ending!

So, I had to cross a pass to reach Mahe, the next town, and the pass, in my experience was one of the longest to ascend (from the Chushul side). There were no markers to indicate how far Mahe was or even the name of the places I was riding through. There wasn’t a single soul on this road, neither human nor animal, I doubt if there were even any insects on that 100-kilometre stretch. As the sun began its descent behind the mountains, I began fearing a breakdown. I would have felt more secure if I had my tools with me but they were in Delhi with my bike. And even if I couldn’t repair the bike, I would have felt secure if I had my tent with me, but that too was in Delhi. “Getting stuck here can be dangerous” I warned myself. 

As the ascent continued, the bike slowed further down, it struggled to pull in the third gear, then after a while in the second gear and eventually even in the first gear. I had only one gear to ride in, if the ascent got any steeper or if the altitude got higher, the bike would NOT move forward. And if the bike stalled and if I had to push the bike, it would take me hours to reach the summit! “This pass is a 100% higher than Khardung La where apart from a tiny headache, I had zero problems to ascend. So which pass is this!?” I asked myself in utter bewilderment. 

The road being empty had a plus side though, it let me enjoy the enthralling scenery in all its glory. I came across two lakes in the valley which was crystal blue in colour, just like Pangong and looked absolutely stunning! For a while they made me forget about my breakdown worries. And just as I began to forget, the bike began to struggle more with the ascent, to an extent where my fear was about to be realised – the bike was losing air even in the first gear! And I didn’t even know how far I was from the summit. I pleaded with Ebony “Hang on dear!”. To my fortune, that was the last stretch and I finally reached the pass! There were no markers even at the top so I left the question to be answered by Google when I’d be back in a network zone. Looking at the road going all the way down, my choked lungs finally let out a sigh of relief.

By the time I reached Mahe, the clock had struck 5, the sun was down and I was both mentally and physically exhausted and I asked myself if I really wanted to go to Tso Moriri. I hardly ever back away from my plans, but if I ever feel like, strongly, I pay attention to that feeling. The town of Mahe was in sight and I put off making the decision till after I had a REAL lunch. REAL lunch translates to piping hot momos dipped in hot chilli sauce!

My flight to Delhi for the next leg of the trip would take off in less than 36 hours and after considering my tired state, I decided to not ride 60 kilometres in the dark, cold night to Tso Moriri, instead made my way to Chumathang en route Leh where I halted for the night.

The name of the pass is Kaksang La is the 8th highest motorable pass in the world, at an altitude of 17,841 feet. It was, in fact, taller than Khardung La which is the 11th highest motorable pass, at an altitude of 17,582 feet. The two lakes I came across are Mirpal Tso and Yaye Tso.

Next: Chumathang to Leh City. The last day in Ladakh!

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The post Overlanding in the Himalayas #6: Nubra Valley to Tso Moriri (Day 8-Day 9) appeared first on Roadtales.

Whether it is the sloppy roads of hill stations or the labyrinth of wilderness, India is one of the countries with a lot of gut-wrenching thrills to offer. A trip to the routes mentioned in this list is a daring escapade; brace yourself for a virtual road trip to the most dangerous roads in India. The following road routes are risky, consider your safety before attempting to scale them.

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Shimla-Spiti Valley – Notorious Roads

A road trip to the cold desert mountain of Spiti Valley through Kinnaur from Shimla is filled with thrills; the dirt tracks and unpaved roads make this road trip quite challenging. The road after Jeori is narrow, which will test your riding skills as you will have to maintain your balance throughout the dirt-filled rocky roads and treacherous uneven terrains.

The 432-km ride from Shimla to Spiti Valley is packed with emotions; the slush-fenced roads will make you forget about the rough ride, and the air of shrines and monasteries is calming. Drive along the scenic routes, apple orchards and breathtaking valleys.

Leh-Manali – Fickling Weather

The 474-km Leh-Manali highway is one of the most popular road trips in India. The Rohtang Pass, which is en route to Leh-Manali is ambushed by snowstorms and blizzards. Even in the summer, the Leh-Manali stretch is teeming with snow, making the road trip daunting.

The narrow roads and sharp turns via Khardung are dramatic and prone to landslides, and the snow cover makes the roads slippery. You have to be on guard at all times again the unpredictable weather. Amid all the chaos, the beautiful snow-laden peaks will melt your heart, and the grasslands and rocky mountains will make your Leh-Manali road trip enchanting.

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Kishtwar-Kailash – Nerve Racking

If you have a thirst for adventures, then you should visit Kishtwar (a district in J&K) and head to Kailash. The stretch is only 114 km, but it is the scariest routes in India. Riding along the overhanging cliffs and the narrow valley can be a nerve-racking experience. The road has no guard rails, and the unsecured edges of the roads make it more difficult to navigate.

The roads through Kishtwar-Kailash are not safe. Tourists have named it a “killer” road as it is layered with gravel, sand and stone. Moreover, cars do not fit properly in these almost impassable roads. If you are not good at driving on such roads, better hire a designated driver. Note that the Kishtwar to Kailash road trip is not for the faint of heart.

Guwahati-Khasi Hills – Slippery & Skiddy Roads

Ride through the lush forest between Guwahati and Khasi Hills. The roads in this region are generally wet due to the damp weather; be attentive while driving as roads tend to be slippery. Also, pay attention while turning as your vehicle’s tyres may lose grip.

That being said, the beautiful waterfalls and living root bridges stretching through the route will ease your journey. The 119-km trip to the hills is a trial, albeit elating. If your vehicle tyres manage to whiz past the moist roads, then this road route will be beautiful and refreshing.

Kolli Hills Road – ‘Mountain of Death’

Also known as Kolli Malai, Kolli Hills is a mountain range in the Namakkal district of Tamil Nadu. The Kolli Malai Ghat road is said to be one of the most dangerous roads as it has 70 continuous hairpin bends. You need to make your way through the numerous curves to reach the majestic hilltop. Kolli Hills Road starts at Kalappanaickenpatti. The first 25 bends are easy. Later, the route goes bad. Potholes and patches will make your trip strenuous. Hairpins are too narrow, leaving no room for two vehicles to take a turn at the same time. The route is teeming with picturesque and rich flora and tropical forests. Venture on the spine-chilling twists and turns at the Kolli Hills Road passage. If you are skilled at driving, then a road trip to Kolli Hills Road will be a truly magical experience.

Gata Loops – Spooky

At a height of 17,000 feet above sea level, Gata Loops is a 21-hairpin road to one of the highest motorable passes in Ladakh, Nakee La. Gata Loops has a reputation for evoking creepy narratives, making a road trip to this mysterious attraction a daring experience. Some people believe that the roads of Gata Loops are haunted. For this, people shower food and water, even cigarettes to please the “spirits.”

A road trail to Gata Loops is bone-crunching – the sharp hairpin bends are quite challenging. During winters, the road becomes harder to parse as it is covered in incessant ice sheets. The view of the snowy mountains are the Gata Loops offers for those who dared to travel through it.

Plan a trip during the months of June, July, August and September.

Sam Dunes – Wind Swept

In general, sand dunes are tough to drive on because of the loose and soft sand and the dusty wind. To overcome this, you will need a bike with good tyres and great driving skills. If you have a thing for bike riding in sand dunes, you should go for the Jaipur to Sam Dunes trial.

The 705-km stretch from Jaipur to Sam Dunes is well-maintained. However, withstanding the wind-swept sand dunes is a challenge in itself, and maintaining the balance of the vehicle also becomes hard. The unparalleled views of golden sands is worth all the struggle.

Zigzag Roads – Shot of Adrenaline

The three-level Zig Zag Roads in Sikkim are dizzying, with more than 100 hairpin roads in a 30-km stretch, these Zigzag Roads are famous worldwide. You will experience an adrenaline rush on these curvy roads. Driving along these roads may make you nauseous. The panoramic views of this place are breathtaking. Especially during the snow, the landscapes of the Zigzag roads look magical.

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Definitely, driving on the Zigzag roads is not for the fainthearted. If you can endure the dizziness and whirling, only then should you go for this test of will. Catch amazing views during the golden hours. The breezy winds and the majestic views will make an ideal adventure seeker’s dream.

Zoji La – Worth The Ride

Zoji La is a mountain pass nestled between Srinagar and Leh. The pass is located on NH1 and is a major link between Ladakh and Kashmir. Also known as the lifeline of Ladakh, Zoji La is worth exploring because of the stunning sight of the Himalayas it offers. Before taking a road trip to Zoji La, check the weather conditions. Also, the link will be closed for six months during winter, for obvious reasons.

The high winds and snowfalls make a dent in the travel experience. Narrow roads and steep drops make the road trial more risky and thrilling. There is no railing between you and the abyss. The snowcapped mountains and dense jungles are “spiritual” to say the least.

Quench your thirst for adrenaline-charged road trips, explore the might of nature in India on wheels, escape the chaos of everyday life, and challenge yourself. These road trips are filled with the kind of thrill and risk that you will seldom experience at any other place in the world.

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